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What You Should Look for in a Hydraulic Pump?

What You Should Look for in a Hydraulic Pump?

The pump is the heart of the hydraulic system. If you want efficiency, it’s all in there.

One day, I was sitting with my engineers in one of my stores discussing some new system designs when I heard a vehicle park just outside the store. It was a long-time client, one who I have worked with for years. After a short discussion, it was clear that he wanted some help on choosing the perfect hydraulic pump for his equipment.

So you see, a pump is not just a pump. A pump is what it delivers. If its output is way below average, then you might just be having something that resembles a pump. Find a ‘real’ pump!!

My word to my client was simple; take the best. But first I got my team to select some few pumps for him to choose. And after that, I explained to him what defines a good pump.

Pressure rating

Remember, we said a pump does not generate any pressure. It generates a flow. So, a pump’s pressure rating is determined by its ability to stand pressure (from the load) without getting messed up. This can be through breaking parts or by increasing internal leakage.

Now, you definitely need a pump that will handle the heaviest of the loads carried by your equipment. A pump that will work at high pressure without breaking. So to say, anything below the pressure range of your load will be of little (if any) use to you.

Many pumps can work well between 500-15000 psi. But ‘many’ does not mean ‘all.’ Okay? And ‘well’ does not mean ‘perfect’ as well. For your information, external gear and vane pumps have a maximum pressure of 2000 to 4000 psi. Their internal gear counterparts engage well at 1500 to 2000 psi. On the other hand, the piston pumps have higher ratings of 3000 to 5000 psi. But only a few can operate at higher pressures.

A thing not to forget is that pressure ratings that allow maximum continuous service normally range between 2000 to 4000 psi.


I bet this is what brought you to my store. Isn’t it? Let me make it simple for you. Efficiency is rated in three ways:

Overall efficiency: The ratio of hydraulic energy output to mechanical energy input. It decreases with internal leakage.

Volumetric efficiency: The ratio of the real delivery to the theoretical (expected) delivery. This is normally very high.

Mechanical efficiency: The ratio of overall efficiency to volumetric efficiency. It decreases with internal friction and fluid compensation.


Now here is another big thing. Flow means everything to a hydraulic system, pump, and to you of course. Flow is determined by the size of the pump, normally expressed as the volumetric flow output. A higher flow (delivery) rate is all you need.

Note that the delivery rate will vary depending on the environment and the type of application. Well, if a system does not require much pressure, why (and how) would a pump produce a high flow? The flow rate will always be indicated in the manufacturer’s guide.

The bottom line is that a higher flow rate means greater efficiency.


Imagine a pump that can operate under high pressure, but takes hours to get the work done. Heck no!! You’ll probably spend the entire day (or more) doing very little (if anything at all) for your giant investment. Am sure you don’t want that.

To perform swiftly, a pump should be able to fill without cavitation. Luckily, the speed range and what you need to do to enhance it are always indicated in the user manual. Check them before purchasing.

Fluid compatibility

Ahem! This needs your attention (undivided). Not every hydraulic fluid works well will every hydraulic pump. Not all. Actually, every pump works best with certain types of fluids.

And if I can take you down the memory lane, for a moment, you will realize that hydraulic fluids are shifting from being petroleum-based to being bio-friendly and nonflammable. Many of the pumps we use today were manufactured for the petroleum based oils. So, you will need to be much careful when selecting the right fluid for your pump.

Stretched Perfections has got dozens of both modern and old school pumps lined up in our stores. And like every sane manufacturer, we always indicate what fluid is best for it.

Always make sure that the fluid you use has the right viscosity and enough additives to prevent wears in the pump. A wrong choice can cut a pump’s life by half. And that’s really awful.

So, What next?

Back to our story, my client had already changed his choice by the time I was done explaining. A pump needs more than just moving parts. Besides fitting in your application, a pump should be able to deliver efficiently. It’s the best way to get work done to the end with no downtimes.

Now that you’ve heard it yourself, why don’t you visit our stores today and choose a nice pump to complete your work? Our pumps are designed to give you maximum output at high pressure with no inconveniences. They are the perfect deal for your company and equipment.

Call Us Now. Make your order right now, and you’ll be surprised by how efficient we are in delivering your orders. We’ll get you the best items from our awesome and extensive selection.

You know what? Contacting us is the best thing to do right now for your company. We’ll be waiting for your call.

Stretched Perfections never fails. We always deliver on our promises.

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What to Look for in Hydraulic oil; Reviewing Hydraulic Oil Standards

What to Look for in Hydraulic oil; Reviewing Hydraulic Oil Standards

The next time you enter a vender’s shop for some hydraulic oil, you’d better consider your choices first. Any mistake with oil can spell Danger to your hydraulic system and equipment in general. And that is exactly why we, Stretched Perfections, are giving you this free guide to choosing the best oil for your equipment.

The baseline is that if you use any oil with the different standards from what your machine needs, chances are that it won’t serve you as it should. You don’t want that, do you? Now let’s get rolling.

Viscosity is King

Am imagining of a heavy oil, something between solid and liquid. Combine that with the snowfall and you surely know that you’ll be starting your engine forever. My point is that you need to get the right viscosity for your hydraulic system, may it be oil or any other fluid.

Get these right. Choose oil viscosity depending on the type of equipment you are operating, its operating environment, and the kind of work it does. But more important is the mechanical and volumetric efficiency needed for the equipment. High viscosity causes a drop in mechanical efficiency but raises volumetric efficiency. And the vice versa is true of course.

First, check the manufacturers’ guide for oil application specifications in your equipment. They know what works best with their products. ISO grades are another thing; never ignore them. They mainly indicate the viscosity and temperature range of the hydraulic oils and fluids.

Move with the weatherman. Cold weather will cause the hydraulic fluid to thicken, or rather to grow more viscous. You’ll definitely need some thin (not much thin though) oil to start the engine. In hot weather, the viscosity will reduce, and the fluid will flow more easily. But don’t take it kindly. A very thin fluid will leak easily through any aperture.

Hydraulic oil viscosity and temperature are one thing. If the hydraulic system gets too hot, the hydraulic oil reduces its viscosity greatly, while low temperatures boost the viscosity. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) classifies oils in a VI scale table to show different viscosities depending on the temperature range.


Index Viscosity
0-350C Low
35-800C Medium
80-1100C High
1100C or more Very high

The viscosity and temperature indices are always labelled in the format 10W-40, but the numbers will differ.

Choice of additives           

Additives give hydraulic oil its various properties. The main additives include anti-oxidants which reduce sludge deposits and allow a longer use of the oil; anti-rust additives lessen the formation of rust in the components by forming a protective layer over the metallic parts.

For the winter, cold flow additives allow the use of the equipment under extremely cold weather. Anti-foaming additives cut foaming within the fluid thus reducing the equipment’s risk of damage. Finally, anti-wear additives simply moderate wear and tear in the hydraulic system and components.

Identifying the additives used

Watch out for these descriptions on container labels. They indicate the types of additives used.

HL represents refined mineral oils that have anti-oxidants and anti-rust properties.

HM stands for hydraulic oils with properties same to HL, but with added anti-wear features.

HR represents oils with properties similar to HL, but with additional VI improvers.

In a nutshell

Be considerate of your hydraulic system needs when choosing a hydraulic fluid or oil. There are many factors to consider of course, but they all rotate around viscosity and the additives used. Be sure to consider these. And don’t you forget to look into your system builder’s manual.

Work with the best manufacturer in the market: Stretched Perfections welcomes you to try our unique hydraulic products. Reach out to us through our contact page at any time.

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It’s Time to Style Up Preventive Maintenance for Hydraulic Cylinders

It’s Time to Style Up Preventive Maintenance for Hydraulic Cylinders

Time to time, you’ll hear machine operators complaining of poor machine performance. Well, this is not that far-fetched as they really whine. Sometimes it’s just the cylinder; and a little check-up can bring the whole system back to normal functionality. And by the way, ignoring this seemingly minute inspection might cost you a screaming thousand dollars (or more).

Coming to think of cylinders, anything (unneeded) can be a problem. And you definitely know that every problem is a cost. Because of this, Stretched Perfections brings you a guide on how to extend your cylinders’ service life by applying these simple tricks.

  1. Regular inspections

I will say this again (and again if need be). Carrying out constant check-ups on your hydraulic system and each component helps note any adversity in advance. It is never too early to check the condition of the cylinders once in a while or more often. After all, huge gaping might cost you a fortune in repairs and replacements.

Check out the rod for wears, pitting or corrosion. Corrosion and pitting can amplify seal damage. Mostly, these glitches arise from misalignment; which causes load weight to impact on one side of the rod, causing uneven wear.

Consider re-chroming or re-polishing the rod if the wear isn’t intensive. Otherwise, get a reliable manufacturer like Stretched Perfections to produce another new hydraulic cylinder for you.

SOS: Fix the root problem first before repairing the cylinder. Otherwise you might find yourself doing repairs more often than necessary. If the cause was misalignment, straighten it first.

  1. Servicing the accessories

If it were not for the accessories, there wouldn’t be a cylinder. The point is that these fittings are nearly (or equally) important as the cylinder. It thus goes without saying that any wear on the clevis, pin, brackets, ball joints, rod eyes or any other connections can cause severe damages to the cylinder and the whole hydraulic system.

Watch out for vibrations, jerky and inaccurate motions as they might indicate joint misalignments which further causes fittings’ wear.

Replace or repair any damaged fittings during your maintenance routines. This will ensure a continuous running of your equipment and save you any downtime costs.

  1. Cylinder rotation

This is a definite sucker’s punch. Downtimes are a real nightmare to any hydraulic operator. But having some spare cylinders can save you all this mess. Do regular rotations by removing working cylinders and replacing them with fresh ones.

Disassemble the removed cylinders, examine them and do any repairs if necessary. These hydraulic cylinders should then be used in the next rotation.

Among other things, the cylinder condition reveals the situation in the whole hydraulic system. A varnish may indicate that the oil is operating under continuously hot temperatures. Particulate matter within the cylinder is a clear sign of contamination.

Take care of these before reassembling the cylinders.

  1. Check fluid and fluid contamination levels

Now this is serious. It’s easier to deal with low fluid levels that contaminated fluid. If the fluid is insufficient (and if this happens often), you might need to inspect the hoses and other adjacent components such as the pump and hoses for a leak. Be sure to repair these.

Save your hydraulic system by changing the hydraulic fluid every now and then, mostly after 2-3 days. It will help keep contamination levels at the lowest point.

Keep them tight. Seals keep most external contaminants at bay. Also, install a particle counter to monitor the level of particulate matter in the fluid. Better still, send bottled hydraulic fluid samples to local labs for contamination analysis to know the water, air and particle levels in the fluid. That’s not enough. You need to change or top up the fluid.

You don’t wanna miss this opportunity…

At Stretched Perfections, we take care of your equipment, their hydraulic systems, and individual systems. Whether it’s a new installation or a repair we’ve got your back. Just contact us; any time.

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The Most Common Mistakes Hydraulic Mechanics Do Repeatedly

The Most Common Mistakes Hydraulic Mechanics Do Repeatedly

Have you ever wondered why a repair you’ve just done and looked so perfect yielded nothing? Or do you ever get worried that you keep doing the same thing over and over again? Well, it gets me worried too. Because getting hydraulic repairs done perfectly requires more than just a spanner.

Sometimes, you will find that a valve you installed yesterday in machine “A” can’t work well in machine “B” today. This can be very frustrating. But as I mentioned, doing maintenance work on hydraulic systems requires utter tenderness and greater understanding of what is needed.

These blunders are very common among many plant operators. You should avoid them.

  1. Not reading hydraulic safety procedures

Every repair work should be preceded by a proper study on the safety guide. Because not everyone who does the maintenance works is an expert in it. Worse, not every expert knows everything. To avoid any harm, and to perfect the repair job, kindly study the guide.

Many operators have been casualties of pressurized fluid injections (this hurts) because they never check the pressure status before operations. Others have found themselves washed up in the fluid. For the sake of you and your equipment, consider checking the safety procedures first.

  1. Improper oil and reservoir maintenance

The reservoir is an integral part of every hydraulic system. Many workers remember to check the oil and forget everything about the reservoir. Cleaning the hydraulic reservoir once in a while helps relieve the system of some bad heat. And in the process, helps keep contaminants away.

You might not know this, but you should always filter the oil (even if it is new) before refilling. Though oil from the refinery might be sparkling clean, storage and transportation processes introduce a great deal of particles. Installing filters to sieve the oil before entering the reservoir is your best shot to avoid initial contamination.

  1. Replacing components with dissimilar part numbers or letters

Now this is the king of errors. The fact is that every hydraulic part is labeled with a number or a letter. And these numbers tell you what part, joint or port should go where. Because it is easy to get confused by hydraulic valves and pumps that look alike. But they are never (ever) the same.

Match part letters to get your repair work perfect. Otherwise, it might all be in vain. Getting your components from your equipment manufacturer can help reduce the confusion significantly. Also, try renown manufacturers such as Stretched Perfections if you want the best spare parts.

  1. Improper setting of hydraulic pressure

You can’t deny this. Every time (or mostly) a machine seems to have trouble running, the pressure is adjusted (at the pumps and valves) to help the situation. But as you might already know, this rarely solves the problem (if at all it does).

And even after it fails, most mechanics find themselves repeating this all over again. Worse, they fail to readjust the pressure knobs to maintain the needed pressure. Listen, you should always keep the pressure as shown in the manufacturer’s manual. Anything below or above that will cause unnecessary leakages and component damages. And they will cost you badly.

  1. Hasty troubleshooting

I just touched the nerve. How on earth do I tell a whole engineer to go slow on the plant when it is on downtime already? Actually, I should be telling him to get it back up and running soonest possible. But that would be too far risky. Well, you can rush (if need be), and take responsibility for any other parts that will blow, and future downtimes (trust me, they will be very many).

Truth be told, if a machine or a plant breaks down, there must be a problem somewhere. Take your time to study the whole system to identify the exact cause. Don’t rush to change the pump or cylinder for it might not be the actual problem.

Save yourself the unnecessary costs and efforts that would come after hasty repairs. Do the troubleshooting carefully until the whole plant is as good as new. Now, you can be sure of some peace, at least for the next few months.

One final word for you

I’ve said it again and again, and I won’t get tired of saying it. Using counterfeit components is as bad (or even worse) as fluid contamination. The baseline is that they give poor service (if any at all), and their service life is extremely short. They might even break while you are fixing them.

Purchase original hydraulic components from trusted manufacturers like Stretched Perfections to get real value for your hard earned bucks. Use our contact page to reach us; it’s really easy because we are close to your location. We will be right here waiting for you.

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Safe Maintenance of Top Repairable Hydraulic Accumulators

Safe Maintenance of Top Repairable Hydraulic Accumulators

The best way to ensure absolute safety is by sticking to the guidelines. Accumulators are a bad joke. Missing a step multiplies the risk of damage by a thousand times. And that is exactly why we are simplifying the maintenance steps for everyone to understand. Trust me; they are very simple.

Now, the main difference between the top repairable and the bottom repairable accumulators is simple. When repairing the former, you start from the top. And when fixing the latter, you definitely start from the bottom. But with the former, you can also start from the bottom.

The baseline is; follow the steps to the dot. Yes, the dot. Ignore nothing and you’ll make it to the end. You don’t wanna be the kind of folks who love shortcuts. It’s not advisable to take chances with accumulators.

Check our article on Safe Maintenance of Bottom Repairable Hydraulic Accumulators for more safety guidelines on accumulator maintenance.


Step 1: Ensure that the accumulator is relieved of all fluid pressure and that all the fluid is drained.

Step 2: Remove the valve protection cap, unscrew the valve screw cap, and then install the charging and gauging unit to relieve the gas pressure.

Step 3: Use a wrench to loosen the gas port lock nut, then proceed to remove the spacer ring.

Step 4: Push the gas port adapter into the shell.

Step 5: Remove the rings starting with the back-up ring, O-ring, and the flat ring. Take off the anti-extrusion ring from the gas adapter. Fold it in half and remove it via the gas side opening.

Step 6: Pull the gas port adapter via the gas side cavity. Hold it and use another hand to remove the pull rod. Then remove the gas port adapter and bladder (fold this to remove) from the shell.

Step 7: Take out the bladder stem lock nut from the gas valve to isolated the bladder from the gas port adapter.


Examining the components

Inspect every part for any signs of damage, debris, thread damage or any wear and tear. Any damaged part should be replaced. More care should be used when inspecting the bladder and the shell. Contact Stretched Perfections to get the shell repaired or to find a perfect replacement.

Bladders can’t be repaired, never try it. They should be replaced.

Check out our article on Safe Maintenance on Bottom Repairable Hydraulic Accumulators for more guidelines to inspect the components.

After repairing all damages and finding the right replacements, it is time to put the parts back together. Make sure you have them ready. Okay? Nice.

Reassembling the accumulator

Step 1: Confirm that the inside of the shell is free of any debris or any foreign body. Lubricate it with a suitable fluid. This fluid should be filtered thoroughly not to introduce any debris to the accumulator.

Step 2: Remove the valve seal cap and the gas valve core from the bladder, then eliminate all the air. Lubricate the bladder with a suitable lubricant, same to the one used on the shell.

Step 3: Join the gas port adapter to the bladder. Make sure that the gas valve is protruding from the adapter opening.

Step 4: Join the bladder and the gas port by screwing the bladder stem lock nut to the gas valve.

Step 5: Insert the bladder via the gas side opening. To make this easy, fold the bladder into two but make sure it is not twisted; it should be stretched fully.

Step 6: Position the gas port by screwing the pull rod onto the gas valve.

Step 7: Place the anti-extrusion ring on the pull rod (the steel parts should face upward), fold it, and then insert it into the shell. If this proves hard, push the gas port deep into the shell and pull it back again through the ring.

Step 8: Push the gas port lock nut over the pull rod with the cornered side facing away from the shell. Screw (loosely) the gas port lock nut to the gas port and then remove the pull rod.

Step 9: Install the gas valve core and tighten it to 0.5Nm. Recharge the bladder to hold the gas port adapter in position.

Step 10: Remove the gas port lock nut to insert the flat ring into the space between the shell and the gas port. Insert the O-ring and level it on the seat. Then insert the backup ring over the O-ring. Ensure that the grooved surface faces the O-ring. Insert the spacer ring.

Step 11: Screw the gas port lock nut with the cornered surface facing away from the shell. Tighten it with a wrench. Tighten the bladder stem lock nut as well.

Step 12: Install the charging and gauging unit to recharge the bladder while monitoring the bladder stem lock nut to make sure that it is tight enough.

Step 13: Install the valve seal cap and tighten it. Then use a new valve protection cap to cover it.

Congratulations, you have successfully completed the maintenance check-up for a hydraulic accumulator. I wouldn’t be wrong to call you a hero. Because heroes don’t mess up. If not, all could have gone BOOM!!!

Ask the experts

Stretched Perfections prides itself as a renowned manufacturer of hydraulic components and accumulators. Call our offices at any time for help with repairs or to ask for new systems. We’ve unique products lined up for you.

We don’t disappoint. Our prices and product quality are the best in the market. Don’t miss the chance, grab yours now from our stores.

All you have to do is call us and tell us how we can help you. Leave the rest to us.

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Safe Maintenance on Bottom Repairable Hydraulic Accumulators

Safe Maintenance on Bottom Repairable Hydraulic Accumulators
Among the very many components and extensions in hydraulic systems, accumulators are the most critical. One mistake, and the hell breaks loose. But it doesn’t have to be this way. Not at all. Because with proper maintenance skills, any dangerous incidences can be avoided.
As part of this series, Stretched Perfections wants to enlighten our customers on how to conduct proper maintenance on hydraulic accumulators. We believe that the best way to ensure that our clients enjoy the best of our services is to keep them safe in the first place. So, let’s begin with bladder accumulators. Bottom repairable bladder accumulators to be precise.
Only experienced technicians should perform repairs on hydraulic accumulators. Never (ever) do any technical work on the shell. It’s suicidal. When performing any work on the accumulator, ensure that you drain all the fluid (to the last drop) from it. In case you need any assistance, contact Stretched Perfections via Our team will help you.
Another thing to note is that the accumulator can gather pressure even after the hydraulic fluid is drained. To avoid this, depressurize all fluid lines linked to the accumulator and leave them open.
Be prepared, have the right tools?
To do any maintenance work, you’ve got to use the right tools. These include a charging and gauging unit, sockets, a bladder pull rod, a wrench, a blunt flathead screwdriver, a gas valve core tool, soft-faced hammer, and any other special tool indicated by the manufacturer.
First things first, disassemble the accumulator.
Step 1: Disconnect the accumulator from the hydraulic system and place it on a workbench. Make sure it is secured on the bench to avoid any unnecessary movements during repair.
Step 2: Remove the valve protection cap and loosen the valve seal cap. After that, use the charging and gauging unit to relieve the gas precharge (all of it). Use the gas valve core tool to remove the gas valve core.
Step 3: Loosen the vent screw to take out the seal ring. Use the wrench to loosen the lock nut and remove the spacer ring.
Step 4: Work lose the fluid port so that you can easily drive it into the shell and then remove the back-up ring, O-ring, and flat ring from the fluid port. Tug the anti-extrusion ring from the fluid port through the fluid side opening. To achieve this, you might have to fold it in half.
Step 5: Remove the fluid port from the accumulator shell.
Step 6: Take out the bladder stem lock nut and the name-plate from the gas side.
Step 7: Take out the bladder itself from the fluid side. Due to its size, consider folding it to avoid any damages.
Inspect the parts, one by one
Bladder: Charge it with compressed air (nitrogen) and check out for any leakages, scratch marks, and lateral grooves. Light scratch marks can’t obstruct the bladder’s performance so they can be ignored. If they are deep, the bladder should be replaced.
If leaks are detected, replace the gas valve core. If it continues, replace the whole bladder.
Shell: Check the exterior for any damages, and the inside for any particles and scratch marks. Inspect the fluid side bore for any damages that can impede sealing. If any damage is noted, contact Stretched Perfections for guidance on how to repair it or to find the right replacement.
Seals: Always use new seals after every maintenance work
Fluid port: Depress the poppet and rotate it at 900 just to make sure that it is rotating freely. Examine the sealing surfaces, threads, and the poppet as well. If any damages are noted, replace the fluid port.
Non-Vulcanized anti-extrusion ring: Examine the region between the rubber and the steel to confirm that the steel ring is well seated. Look out for any damages on the seat surface of the steel parts. If the rubber or the steel parts are damaged (by any length), replace the ring.
Vulcanized anti-extrusion ring: Inspect the region between the rubber and the steel for any damages or loss of adhesion. Gaps between the steel and rubber are enough signs of loss of adhesion. Inspect the seat region on the steel part for any damage. If any damage is noted anywhere here, or adhesion is lost, replace the ring.

Reassembling the accumulator
Before rejoining the accumulators, make sure that:
• Every part has been inspected and repaired (or replaced)
• The shell is free of any debris, and
• The bladder is free of any air.
Step 1: Lubricate the outside of the rubber and the inside of the shell properly. Be sure to use the right type and amount of the lubricant. The correct measure is about 10% of the accumulator’s volume.
Step 2: Place the bladder stem lock nut on the pull rod. The male threads should be facing the pull rod handle. Then, insert the bladder pull rod through the shell.
Step 3: Install the pull rod onto the gas valve and pull it till the gas valve appears on the gas port cavity. If the bladder happens to be too big, fold it as necessary. But don’t twist it in any way. Just make sure it is stretched adequately.
Step 4: After the gas valve passes through, fix (lightly) the bladder stem lock nut to secure the bladder from sliding into the shell again. Remove the pull rod from the gas valve and then insert the gas valve core. Torque it to 0.5 Nm.
Step 5: Tape the fluid port threads to avoid any damages to the threads and O-rings. Make sure the bladder is stretched (abundantly) in the shell and then install the fluid port into the shell.
Step 6: Insert the anti-extrusion ring into the shell by folding it. The steel seat should be facing the fluid side cavity.
Step 7: Position the fluid port to ensure that it does not slide deep into the shell. To achieve this, pull the port while installing the seals. Better still, you can charge the bladder to support the port.
Step 8: Insert the flat ring into the space between the fluid port and the shell. You might need to re-center the fluid port for the ring to slide in correctly. Insert the O-ring next by pressing it with a rounded flathead screwdriver at 900 intervals. The O-ring should be leveled on the seat.
Step 9: Where need be, insert the back-up ring over the O-ring. The grooved surface should be facing the O-ring.
Step 10: Roll off the protective tape from the fluid port threads. Install the spacer ring with the lip in the shell. Thread it on the fluid port lock nut before enforcing it with a wrench. Then, place the seal ring on the vent screw. Install them in the fluid port and tighten.
Step 11: Ensure that the rings’ installation follows this order: flat ring, O-ring, back-up ring (if used), spacer ring, and lastly the fluid port lock nut.
Step 12: On the gas side, remove the bladder stem lock nut and position the name-plate. Reinstall the bladder stem lock before torqueing it.
Step 13: Connect to the charging and gauging unit to recharge the gas. Inspect the bladder stem lock nut to ensure that it’s tight enough. Not over or under-tightened.
Step 14: Finally, install the valve seal cap and tighten it. Install the valve protection cap too. It’s advisable to replace the old one.
Finally: the accumulator is ready.
The best way
The safest way to ensure that you don’t mess with the accumulator is to ask for professional assistance. Stretched Perfections is the perfect place for you. We repair and run maintenance checks on accumulators at very fair prices. The good thing about us is that we get your accumulators and other components to their original shapes and functionality.
We’ve got the best accumulators lined up for you as well. Visit our stores and walk out with a brand new accumulator. It is as easy as never before. Use our contact page to reach us, anytime.

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Proper Storage, Recycling, and Disposal of Bladder Accumulators

Proper Storage, Recycling, and Disposal of Bladder Accumulators

The fact that accumulators store gas and fluid under high pressure makes them an outright threat to human life. It is, therefore, very (very) important that every accumulator be used and stored as required. Any exposure to unwanted foreign factors can cause mayhem. You don’t wanna be there when it happens.

How many times have you heard of gas explosions? Maybe once or twice. If you haven’t (yet), keep it that way. Because such occurrences have kept undertakers busy for long.

To be honest, it is really simple to be safe with accumulators. Store them in good condition, in good places, and do nothing that you shouldn’t. Yea, that’s all. But when storing and disposing of accumulators, you require more than just caution; you need to know what to do and what not to.

Storing the bladder accumulators

The accumulators mainly come with a primer coat, which keeps the whole system in good condition for up to 3 years. But not just like that, some conditions have to be met:

  • Storage temperatures of between 10-320C.
  • The store should be dry and cool.
  • Little mobility to the accumulator.

Storing the bladder

Normally, a bladder will last up to a year under storage. But that ain’t enough considering the cost of buying one. After all, no one stores a bladder only to dispose it off later. It doesn’t make sense. But under good conditions, a bladder can last up to 3 years. It all depends on your efforts.

One thing you should do is lay the bladder flat. No folding, no bending, no twisting; not at all. And like I mentioned before, its life depends on your seriousness. If you are (really) serious, now consider charging it with nitrogen to its full size. It will extend its life. And that’s awesome.

Heat seal the bladder in a three mil minimum ultra-violet (UV) resistant bag or a five mil minimum black polyethylene bag.

Purging air from the polyethylene bags with nitrogen enhances the storage conditions of the bladder. Proper sealing should be applied thereafter.

Store the bladder (in the bags) from direct sunlight, fluorescent lights, and UV. And also, keep away those electronics that produce ozone. The best place to find such conditions is in cardboard boxes that fit the accumulator’s (or bladder in this case) size. Last but not least, maintain an average temperature of between 10-320C.

Its shelf life is ended, what next?

For a bladder accumulator, the end of its shelf life doesn’t mean it is no more useful. No, it is. But some steps are needed to make it safe for use.

First, inspect it for any signs of damage such as rust and corrosion. Well, rust is the only thing that doesn’t respect the storage conditions. If there is rust, paint the whole thing. It will keep it going.

If any component is damaged, such as rings and protective cover, replace them with new ones. Call Stretched Perfections for new top-quality components. Also, some items such as the seals, gas valve, and sometimes the bladder have to be replaced. You just can’t stand the risk.

How do I recycle or dispose of bladder accumulators?

After all is said and done, accumulators get damaged to a point of no return. And there is very little we can do about that. But we can recycle them. Right? Yes, indeed.

Drain them of any hydraulic fluid (it is harmful to the environment). Then, drill holes on the shell to render the accumulator inoperable. Beware!! First, ensure that it is free of any pressure (if it has been used lately) before doing this. Once done, separate the steel parts and the rubber. Recycle or dispose of these two materials differently as per the regulations of your country.

I need another bladder accumulator

Alright. Which one do you want? We’ve got lots of them in our stores. Just for you. And you know what? They are very original, and top performance is guaranteed. Yes, top performance. And I mean every bit of it.

We manufacture and supply original hydraulic components. For every product, we have some other from other manufacturers. It’s all about giving you a high-quality variety to choose from. Call us now or email us at

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Preventive Maintenance; the hydraulics’ lifesaver

Preventive Maintenance; the hydraulics’ lifesaver

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure (Benjamin Franklin).

Preventive maintenance gives your equipment, hydraulic systems, and components the very long service-life you need. But not so easily. Because it requires devotion.

Hydraulic fluid is the key to effective preventive maintenance. There are different kinds of fluid, each containing different types of additives depending on the manufacturer. Among the important additives include viscosity-index providers, anti-foaming, anti-oxidants, anti-wears, and anti-corrosions. When buying hydraulic fluids, consider checking the available additives.

Don’t confuse hydraulic oil for hydraulic fluid. Though they share in many applications, it is not advisable to use oil in high pressure areas or near ignition points. It can explode.

First things first, fluid contamination kills

The bottom-line is that heavy off-road equipment and farming machinery are exposed to lots of contaminants. Any (and every) other machinery that experience frequent movements and actuations have considerable exposure to contamination.

Be cautioned that any kind of foreign particles is disastrous when in the hydraulic fluid. They increase wear and tear at best. At worst, they cause permanent system failure. Too bad!! Isn’t it?

With this, regular checks are necessary to keep the hydraulic systems clean and safe.

Testing for fluid contamination

Fix filters at regular intervals along the hydraulic system to sieve contaminants from the hydraulic fluid. More regular checks are needed for sensitive and/or heavy equipment that are on constant operation, to consistently check contaminant levels and change filters (and/or other components) in good time.

Important times to test hydraulic fluids;

  1. After new fluid is added,
  2. After equipment maintenance,
  3. After hose replacement,
  4. After addition of any component,
  5. During routine preventive maintenance check-ups, or
  6. After any other operation that exposes hydraulic fluid to contamination.

How to do it: Install test point fittings at regular intervals along the system to allow constant monitoring of the contamination levels without disrupting the system’s functionality. Be sure to use quality test point connections for safer fluid testing.


  1. Use original fittings to test fluids,
  2. Use manufacturer’s recommendations to conduct testing operations,
  3. Have a variety of test point fittings ready at all times; any time is time for trouble.
  4. Be consistent, be faithful to your check-up routine.

Perfecting the Preventive Maintenance Operation

  1. Assess the system’s operation rate and environment.

Find out how long the machine operates on daily, weekly, or monthly basis. Analyze the hydraulic fluid flow rate and pressure, and how often (and long) it operates closely to its operational limit.

Assess the working environment of the machine. Some places are dusty, moist, or very dry, which requires different levels and frequency of check-ups.

  1. Study the equipment manufacturer’s guidelines

Manufacturers (well, not all) always provide recommendations on the particulates in the hydraulic fluid. Be sure to check on what the designer recommends in frequency and detail of check-ups for preventive maintenance.

SOS; if you are using components different from the ones provided by the original manufacturer, (maybe because of a recent change) consider studying the component manufacturer’s guide. This will help determine their compatibility with the system, and to make any necessary changes.

  1. Study the maintenance history

The frequency and intensity of maintenance practices conducted on the machine in the past gives a lead on how present and future maintenances should be done. If the frequency of preventive maintenance was higher, it is probable that the machine’s life is almost over. A normal check-up program in the past, and less (or nil) breakdowns may indicate a healthy machine.


Strict adherence to your preventive maintenance program largely determines the effectiveness of your preventive maintenance routine. A little slumber may cause contamination or other complications such as wear and tear to eat away your hydraulic system further.

The point is that if you set a minimum interval of 4 months, be sure to check every 4 months.


Stretched Perfections wishes you the best a you set out to crown your preventive maintenance routine with our hot tips.

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Getting Down for a Proper Preventive Maintenance on Hydraulic Pumps

Getting Down for a Proper Preventive Maintenance on Hydraulic Pumps

It happened that one of our client’s equipment, a street-sweeping machine, experienced total immobility and the client could not tell what the problem was. He had tried various mechanics, but no one seemed to find the bug in the system. And guess what? He had resolved to purchase another system if one last check didn’t yield anything.

The thing is that he landed in our caring arms for this repair. He fell straight where hydraulic expertise flows in the veins. At Stretch Perfections, our team did a thorough check-up on the whole machine, and you know what? It was a simple pump malfunction.

And what was to cost a whole lot of whooping dollars plunged to just a few bucks.

Just like any other component, the pump requires (actually it deserves) regular check-ups to keep it clean. If you are wondering why it requires this whole lot of monitoring, it’s because of its close engagement with the hydraulic fluid; or rather the hydraulic systems’ blood.

When to check your pump

  1. When the machine is old, and its maintenance cost is cheaper than the price of a brand new machine.
  2. If the machine is working under excessive stress, and/or in risky environments.
  3. During routine check-ups programmed to keep the equipment and operators’ safe.

How to go about it

It’s worthwhile noting that every manufacturer has different specifications regarding maintenance practices. To be on the safer side, use the manufacturer’s menu. If there is no user menu (or if you don’t trust your menu), here is a short breakdown of how to do preventive maintenance for your hydraulic pumps.

Step 1: Cardinal rule; first disconnect the power supply before engaging any maintenance works on your pumps. Am sure you don’t want to get electrocuted, do you?

Step 2: Check the hydraulic fluid levels in the pump. Typically, the level indicator should show the fluid at a half distance from the top, though your manufacturer’s menu might indicate otherwise. Check the oil level in the reservoir as well.

Economy Vs. Safety; adding more fluid is economical, but replacing it is safer.

Step 3: Detach the pump from the main system by removing the screws that attach it and the motor assembly to the reservoir. Exhibit optimal tenderness not to damage any adjacent components. The pressure valves and filter can cause headaches if tampered with.

Step 4: Cleanse the reservoir and fill it with a flushing fluid.

Step 5: Reattach the motor and pump assembly to the reservoir and run it for some time to flush out the fluid. It’s like a bath; it cleans the whole system unit.

Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 until you are sure that the system is clean.

Step 6: Reattach the motor and pump assembly unit back to the whole system again, and fill it with new hydraulic fluid.

Wrapping it up

Did you notice any other problem with your pumping system during the check-up? Well, you need to fix this before engaging the pump in another operation. Some common challenges include total pump failure and oil leaks. Lucky enough, these are easy to repair when noticed early.

At Stretched Perfections, we not only sell you original hydraulic components but also troubleshoot the systems you are using. Trust me you, when we get down to check your equipment; it will be as good as new.

We welcome you to try our amazingly designed products and services to transform your businesses to higher levels. They give you the much needed superior performance. If you can’t reach our offices, just dial our numbers or send us an email. We will be on your doorstep right on time.

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Keeping Hydraulic Fluid Contamination at the Bay

Keeping Hydraulic Fluid Contamination at the Bay

I think it’s time we stop beating around the bushes and take the bull by the horns. We can’t be talking of hydraulic system hygiene without the know-how on avoiding fluid contamination. Isn’t it serious that a mere sand grain can blow up some millions? In a second?

But we possibly wouldn’t be talking about this if more than 70% of hydraulic system failures were not caused by contamination. You know I can’t imagine a whole Ferrari (yes, Ferrari) or an aircraft’s (like Boeing) hydraulic system being brought down by some flour grains. Men, these particles can be so dishonoring at times (if allowed to).

You possibly know all that bluff about water, air, and even the minutest of particles blocking your hydraulic system. That’s just but the tip of the iceberg. Dealing with them is the real deal.

The good news is that dealing with contamination has just got easier. Here, we share some quick tit bits you can use (you really should start right now) to keep your system clean from fluid contamination. But whichever method you use, be sure to refer to your operator’s manual.

Tighten your first line of defense

Seals and filters are without question the first components that keep silt, and other particles away. To be frank, these can’t keep every contaminant away. But they are worth it, especially because they greatly cut the amount of contaminants entering the hydraulic system.

Manufacturers such as Stretched Perfections have created a new brand of filters that can sieve the smallest of particles. The real deal about these new generation filters is that they have small-diameter fibers that sieve a greater range of contaminants in the very first pass.

Also, air-tighter seals are available in the market to keep unneeded air and water off the grid.

Throw in some rod boots

When it comes to heavy-duty machinery, rod boots are the perfect deal. The harsh environment that off-road equipment operate in is better survived with these boots that cover the outside of the cylinder. While the rod is moving in and out, the boots follow suit by expanding and contracting.

Desiccant breathers are a godsend

Their name says it all. They block water moisture from entering the system. Plus, they filter those awfully tiny particles from the air as it (air) is sucked via the breather.

Why do you need these breathers while tanks have got breathers too? Well, it’s because most tank breathers are not efficient enough to block microscopic particles. After all, it is hard (if not impossible) to prevent dust itself from entering the air vents in the first place. So, consider substituting fill ports with some desiccant breathers from a trusted manufacturer.

Rust inhibitors

Whoever designed these chemical items must have known how it feels to have a downtime. You know why? Because they are the absolute stoppers of water and particulate contaminants, mainly when they are internally generated. And rust is one big problem for all hydraulic systems.

Corrosion spawns metal particles that can block the hydraulic fluid within components. The rust inhibitors are resistant to water, thereby preventing any rust from settling on the component walls. They do this by placing a protective coating on the metal parts.

Now, do it like a King

One isn’t enough. Apply two or more of these techniques. You are better safe than sorry. After all, the benefits of optimal operational running beat the downtime costs by a great margin.

Now listen, it could all be vain to spend your hard-earned bucks bracing your equipment with counterfeit components. Yes, it could be all add up to zero. I mean all that effort for zero pay.

Perfect it with our unique components

And you know what? Buying original components from trusted manufacturers saves you all that headache that comes with constant and sometimes worthless repairs. My word for you is, buy original components, and you’ll get a good taste of your money and equipment.

Stretched Perfections main objective is to make sure that every hydraulic machine user enjoys every bit of it. We manufacture and provide original hydraulic components, and do all that repairing donkeywork for you at very affordable prices. Don’t miss the opportunity to boost your equipment productivity with our components. Call in at any time; we are here to help.